Cuba
CAPITOL CITY
Havanna
LANGUAGE
Spanish
CURRENCY
Cuban peso
FLIGHT DURATION
+/- 13 hours
You may say I’m a dreamer, but I am not the only one…
My dad and I set off on an adventure to Cuba — our second big trip together. Just like last time, my mum drove us to Schiphol Airport, keeping our little tradition alive.
Only this time, there were no COVID restrictions, and we had a perfectly reasonable departure time. Still, we ended up rushing… something to do with a little too much fun the night before. 😉
The plan was to “travel light” and go with carry-on luggage only. Easier said than done. It took some serious decision-making, clever packing, and a touch of minimalism — but in the end, we made it work!
What really caught us off guard, though, was the freezing cold. It was a stiff -5 degrees when we arrived, and we were packed for the tropical 30°C of Cuba. But cold or not, it didn’t stop me from heading out for a quick walk and a little first glimpse of Toronto. My fascination with Canada only deepened. This vast country is already high on my bucket list, and there’s still so much left to explore…
Luckily, we had a relaxed departure the next morning — a 9 am flight, just three hours long. After a solid night of coma-level sleep, we felt recharged and ready for the next chapter of our trip!
We didn’t end up flying to Havana as planned, though — our new flight took us to Varadero instead. Our first night was booked initially in Havana, so that wasn’t ideal — but hey, that’s travel for you. A little chaos just comes with the territory.
Practical tips
- Read the book ‘Cuba Congo‘ to prepare for your trip.
- You’ll need a visa to enter Cuba — make sure to avoid unofficial or fake visa providers.
- Download ‘La nave‘, Cuba’s version of Uber, to arrange taxis more easily.
- Opt for a stay in a casa particular instead of a hotel — it’s a great way to support local families.
- If you plan to buy a Cuban SIM card, be prepared for long wait times — often around two hours.
- Taxis can be relatively expensive in Cuba. Consider using“Taxi Colectivo”, where you share the ride (and cost) with other travellers.
We landed in the afternoon at Juan Gualberto Gómez Airport, in Varadero. From there, it was another 2.5-hour drive to our villa in Havana. By then, I was starting to feel a bit hungry, but our taxi driver warned us that food was scarce—the chances of finding something on the way were slim. Luckily, we found a roadside stand that was still open, and I managed to grab a cheese sandwich. Then the real challenge began: finding our villa. I’d already given the address to the driver, but apparently Cuba doesn’t use street numbers, so we ended up searching for quite a while. Also… let’s say it was literally a bumpy ride.
My food & drink experiences
- Peñón del Fraile: This little roadside spot was right off the highway between Varadero and Havana. They had exactly one option: a simple white bread sandwich with cheese— and honestly, it hit the spot. I spent my very first Cuban pesos on this little lifesaver.
- Case Suiza: Tucked away in Old Havana, this cosy spot served me a jamón y queso sandwich with a strong cup of coffee — all at a great price.
- Tienda Galeria Café Galeano 461: A fun Cuban restaurant where you can try local dishes. The atmosphere felt like something out of the ’60s, with great music and friendly staff.
- 304 O’Reilly: I found this place through the Lonely Planet guide. It’s a small restaurant — great if you’re in the mood for something not traditionally Cuban. I ordered the pasta carbonara, and it was surprisingly delicious.
Where I stayed
- Our first three nights were booked at La Vila Teresa, a beautiful and somewhat luxurious villa in Havana. The rooms were spacious and — by Dutch standards — charmingly old. Breakfast was tasty, the staff incredibly kind, and the whole place had a warm, welcoming vibe that made it easy to feel at home.
What I saw and did
- Central park: We took a taxi into the heart of Havana. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but the vibe was relaxed and welcoming. It’s a beautiful square surrounded by grand buildings, where you immediately feel immersed in Cuban life. And then, of course, there were the classic Cuban cars everywhere — for my dad, this was absolute heaven. For me? That came when we stumbled across a food market — grilled corn in hand, I wandered through Havana with a big smile on my face. We also gave a small donation somewhere near the park, but it was at a casa particular with no known name or website — sadly, I can’t remember the name. The park is located just near El Capitolio.
- Plaza de Armas: A lovely square in Old Havana, full of musicians, palm trees, and flower vendors.
- John Lennon Park: A small park tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood, where kids were playing outside. There’s a statue of John Lennon sitting on a bench, which gives the place a special charm. Interestingly, Fidel Castro didn’t like the Beatles — but he did admire John Lennon, so he had the statue placed there.
- Playas del este: Crystal-clear water and soft white sand. Perfect for a walk along the shore — as long as it’s not too hot!
Cuba is relatively affordable, except for taxis. That’s why there’s the concept of the ‘Taxi colectivo’. With the taxi colectivo (shared taxi), my dad and I travelled together with an Australian couple and their baby to Viñales (Pinar del Río). The ride took about 3 hours — a bit intense at times with a baby on board. I think Viñales was the most beautiful place I saw in Cuba. Viñales lies in a valley, rugged and truly Cuban: this is where cigars are rolled, and where rum and honey are made.
Upon arrival in Viñales, I met Daniel. He knows the village inside and out, which saved us a lot of time and hassle.
My food & drink experiences
- A local dish (chicken legs with rice and salad) at El Olivo.
- A tasty lunch at Tapasbar Tapasbar El Patio.
- A good toastie and pancakes at Restaurante de Casa Nenita.
- Restaurant bar Buena Vista: Definitely eat here at least once — if only to watch the sunset. An incredible spot!
Where I stayed
- Casa Nenita: A great casa with rooms situated by a pool. Delicious breakfast, and plenty of shade to relax in.
What I saw and did
- Horseback riding in the valley: I once rode a horse when I was younger. This was fantastic. We spent an entire afternoon riding through the valley. Along the way, we stopped at a tobacco farm, where we got to see how cigars are made — and taste them. Alongside that, there was homemade honey and rum (great combo). We also learned how sugar water is made and enjoyed an organic lunch, straight from the land.
- Cueva del Indio: A fun experience. First, you walk through the dark and steamy cave, and then take a small boat ride out through the water.
- Mural of Prehistory: According to locals, this mural is 120 metres long and one of the largest open-air murals in the world. It’s painted on the wall of the Pita Mogote in the Sierra de los Órganos, 4 km west of Viñales in western Cuba.
- Mountain bikes: Through Daniel, I rented two mountain bikes so my dad and I could ride through the valley. Be prepared — with those temperatures and steep hills, it’s a serious workout.
- El fortin Canopy Tour: Ziplining. If there’s a zipline somewhere, I always want to try it. That thrill never gets old…
From the west, we took a taxi colectivo heading south. This part of Cuba had a totally different vibe from Viñales — and we loved that! In Cuba, everything runs on your network. That means the casa you’re staying in will usually have a contact for the next one. That’s how we ended up staying with Haezel, a lovely Cuban woman and her German husband (which made communication a bit easier).
My food & drink experiences
- Bahia: Fantastic. A great restaurant with fair prices. I ate here twice. The soup is definitely worth trying.
Where I stayed
- Casa Nauta: Although there is no official website for this place, I do have the coordinates that will guide you straight to the casa particular, in case you’re interested. It’s on the corner of Paseo del Prado and Avenue 46. I also have her contact details (she’d love that).
What I saw and did
- Laguna Guanaroca: Early in the morning, we took a rowboat out on the freshwater lagoon to spot flamingos. We saw plenty of them grouped together — beautiful. It’s a lovely nature reserve, and with a knowledgeable guide, you’ll learn a great deal about the local wildlife and environment. Swimming at the waterfalls of El Nicho: Nothing beats natural water, especially with colours like this. Put this one at the top of your list.
- Swimming at the waterfalls of El Nicho: Nothing beats natural water, especially with colours like this. Put this one at the top of your list.
- Punta Gorda Cienfuegos: A small park with a beautiful view over the water.
- Parque José Martí: A charming old town square that’s perfect for a relaxing walk.
- Playa Giron: A beach located along the Bay of Pigs. Stunning, crystal-clear water.
- Playa larga: Just as beautiful as Playa Girón. A peaceful beach with soft sand and gorgeous water.
After we’d seen everything in Cienfuegos, it was time to move on: Trinidad. This beautiful, colourful town truly makes your heart sing. Everything you see in the photos online? It’s all real.
My food & drink experiences
- Adita Cafe:Definitely recommended. The atmosphere is lovely, and the food is delicious. I had a fantastic shrimp cocktail here. Oh, and just so you know — they don’t know what Irish whiskey is.
Where I stayed
What I saw and did
The best thing to do here, if you ask me, is just walk around town. The colourful houses, life happening outdoors — it just makes you feel happy.
Topes de Collantes: We rode horses up to this stunning natural area. A must if you love beautiful water and waterfalls.
Our final stop in Cuba was Varadero, from where we flew back to the Netherlands. Varadero is… commercial — and therefore much more expensive than other cities in Cuba. For example, in Cienfuegos, you’d pay €1.50 for a Cuba Libre, but here it was €5. The exchange rate is also noticeably worse than in other places. Many Canadians come here to spend a week on holiday (read: eat, drink, and soak up the sun).
My food & drink experiences
- Beatles bar: Here you’ll find John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr — well, not the real ones of course… Out front is a fun little square where they play lots of rock music (if that’s your thing, you’ll enjoy it).
- El Rancho: A quirky restaurant with good food. Local Cuban musicians stop by and play live music — you can even request songs. My dad asked for something by Jimi Hendrix… not sure if they knew it, though.
What I saw and did
- Playa Varadero: The most stunning beach I’ve ever seen! Crystal-clear water in every shade of green and blue, and soft, white sand. This is the kind of place where you truly feel like you’re living the good life.