Chile

Chile

CAPITOL CITY

Santiago

LANGUAGE

Spanish

CURRENCY

Chilean Peso

FLIGHT DURATION

+/- 17 hours

13,671 kilometres from home — the furthest south I’ve ever been. Because why stay close when you can go ridiculously far?

In 2017, I took my first trip to South America, with Chile as my destination. The reason was surprisingly simple: a spontaneous invitation from two Chilean women I’d met in Thailand, who warmly welcomed me and my then-partner to visit their country.
We said a wholehearted yes, not knowing this would be the start of an unforgettable journey that would touch me more deeply than I could’ve ever imagined.

We arrived in Santiago de Chile to a warm welcome from our friends. After dropping our backpacks at their home, we headed straight into the city for our first proper meal. One of the most memorable spots was Cervecería Kunstmann, where I had Crudo (similar to steak tartare) paired with a cold local beer. The sun slowly dipped behind the Andes as we toasted to new friendships and unwritten plans. This first taste of Chilean culture and hospitality was a literal and figurative appetite for more.

The days that followed took us from the colourful streets of Valparaíso to the vast, sun-drenched vineyards of the Casablanca Valley. Along the way, we met people who shared their stories with us: proud winemakers, street artists, and everyday locals.

This trip wasn’t just about discovering a new country—it became a personal journey full of surprises, meaningful encounters, and small moments that turned out to be huge. It showed me how unexpected connections can enrich your life in ways you never planned, leaving you with memories that last a lifetime.

Practical tips

  • Visa: Dutch citizens don’t need a visa for stays up to 90 days.
  • Tourist Card: You’ll receive this on arrival—please keep it safe until you leave.
  • Layered clothing: Chile packs all four seasons into one country—from desert landscapes (Atacama) to glaciers (Patagonia). 
  • Car rental: Highly recommended in Atacama or Patagonia for the freedom to explore at your own pace.
All photos

We landed in Santiago de Chile in the afternoon. Yes, we made it! At the airport, we were greeted with big hugs and warm smiles — such a heartwarming reunion. We dropped our backpacks and headed straight into the city to find food because let’s be real… first you fuel, then you adventure!

For the first few days, we explored the city together with our friends. They know every hidden corner of Santiago (and far beyond), so we were taken from secret spots to local favorites — what a luxury to have such fantastic guides!

My food & drink experiences
  • Cerveceria Kunstmann:
    A great spot. Perfect for enjoying a snack and a cold beer while sitting outside. I ordered Crudo (think: steak tartare) and an ice-cold cerveza. Just what I needed.
  • Azotea Matilde:
    An incredible rooftop restaurant with breathtaking views over Santiago! We ordered octopus with crispy chips, a fresh salmon ceviche, a delicious tuna-avocado ceviche, and giant prawns served with sweet potato fries. Every dish was a treat for the senses! They also serve the best pisco sour in all of South America…
  • Mestizo:
    Wow — such beautifully plated dishes, and what a dreamy setting! This restaurant is tucked away in a park, right next to a group of flamboyant flamingos (yes, really). I still think about this place. It was that good. We started with fresh bread and a surprisingly tasty dip. You know that moment where you just know the meal is going to be special? I had the best salmon ceviche of my entire trip here. Then came pasta with octopus, followed by shrimp ceviche. It was an all-out flavor celebration.
  • Quitral: A cozy spot right on a bustling little square. We ordered grilled steak, grilled sea bass, and, of course, ceviche to start (because, obviously!).
  • Tiramisu:
    Loved the atmosphere on the terrace — people practically spilling out of their seats, arms and legs everywhere. That’s the kind of place I adore.
    We had pasta, a fresh caprese salad with real buffalo mozzarella as a starter, and, yes we definitely had pisco sours.
  • Sushi’s Tosos: Picked up some excellent sushi and ate it back at one of the girls’ apartments — simple and perfect.

What I saw and did:

  • Cerro San Cristóbal:
    This hill towers over the city, offering jaw-dropping views of Santiago with the Andes as a stunning backdrop. We rode our bikes to the top (yep!), but you can also hike or take the cable car. At the summit stands a massive white statue of Mary, and a small chapel where both locals and travellers stop to take a moment to breathe. It’s perfect for a quiet moment — or an epic photo op. And don’t forget on your way down, grab a mote con huesillo — a classic Chilean drink made with husked wheat and dried peaches. Sounds odd, tastes oddly good!
  • Mercado Central: The second you walk in, the smell of fish hits you. And not the nice kind — we’re talking proper funk. Our friends warned us, but hey, smells are subjective. So, of course, we had to check it out ourselves.
  • Barrio lastaria:
    A charming, artsy neighborhood full of little boutiques, galleries, street musicians, and lively squares. The vibe is super laid-back and bursting with creativity. You’ll find cute cafés and wine bars tucked around every corner, and lots of street stalls selling second-hand books, handmade jewelry, and local art.

Just about a 1.5-hour drive from Santiago lies the colourful port town of Valparaíso, perched on the Pacific coast. Think steep hills, vibrant street art, and old-school cable cars.

We didn’t have much time — we were catching a flight to Puerto Natales (way down south) that same day — so we only stopped for lunch. But honestly? Even that whirlwind visit was worth it.

My food & drink experiences

  • Restaurant Fauna: I thought, “How bad can those hills really be?” Well… halfway up, my life started flashing before my eyes, my legs turned to boiled spaghetti, and my stomach was screaming for mercy. But just when I thought I couldn’t take another step — BAM — there it was: a view so spectacular it deserved a round of applause, and food so good it gave me the will to climb another hill (we didn’t, obviously). Yes, more ceviche (can’t stop, won’t stop), but also a delicious quinoa salad and a pollo sandwich that hit the spot.

What I saw and did

  • Playa el sol: A beautiful beach with golden sand and calm waters — the perfect place to catch your breath. 

The southernmost place I’ve ever been — and the furthest from home: 13,671 km.
Puerto Natales is a charming town in the south of Chile, nestled along the Última Esperanza Fjord and surrounded by dramatic mountains and icy waters. It’s best known as the gateway to the world-famous Torres del Paine National Park— a paradise for hikers, photographers, and anyone who thinks they’re fit (spoiler: I was not). But before throwing ourselves into Patagonia’s wild embrace, we decided to explore the town first — and honestly, it was no punishment at all. (Though… it was cold. Brrr.) Luckily, we came prepared — layer upon layer!

My food & drink experiences

  • Baguales Brewpub: Straight out of a Quentin Tarantino film — this was Patagonia’s first brewpub, open since 2010. And yes, they even had Chimay!
  • Espacio Ñandu: A restaurant serving Chilean seafood dishes like salmon, scallops, and king crab. The place has a bit of a tourist information centre vibe — which makes sense, because it is one. However, despite the practical setting, the atmosphere is surprisingly cosy, and the food is spot on. We ordered a king crab and avocado salad, served with lettuce leaves so you could wrap your own bites — simple but full of pure flavour. Oh, and we couldn’t resist a ham & cheese toasty — crustless 😄. Cooked in butter, and absolutely delicious. 🤫
  • Viejo Lobo: If there’s one Chilean dish you must try, it’s the Completo — a Chilean-style hot dog. And where better to get one than at a local stand, where they skip the frills and just do what they do best? It’s the kind of experience that pulls you right into the moment: You unwrap that hot dog, the smell of grilled sausage hits you, and you know you’re in for something good. Topped with avocado, a generous spread of mayo, tomatoes, and sometimes a little spicy sauce — it feels like it was made just for you. Yes, your hands will get messy, but who cares when it tastes this good? After one bite, you’ll wonder why you waited so long to try it.
  • Last Hope Distillery: Yes, that name matched our vibe after a few cocktails. Thankfully, there was bread with dips, burgers, and plenty of snacks to revive us. The distillery has a cosy, speakeasy feel, with barrels and copper distilling gear adding to the atmosphere.
  • Café Kaiken: A hidden gem that completely made my time in town. Located in the heart of Puerto Natales, this café felt like walking into a friend’s kitchen — warm, welcoming, and full of comfort food—the perfect place to hide from the Patagonian cold. We had creamy pasta carbonara, grilled salmon with purple potatoes and veggies, and hearty Bolognese pasta—soul food at its best.
  • Rio Serrona: This one was a happy accident. We ended up here after the Torres del Paine National Park closed due to bad weather and safety concerns. So, with our plans cancelled, we went looking for alternatives and stumbled across this hotel, which typically offers horseback riding (sounded perfect). Unfortunately, that too got called off due to the weather, so instead, I ordered a shrimp and avocado salad. Simple, but exactly what I needed in that moment.

Where I stayed

  • Hostal Camino de Santiago: This cosy hostel is run by Paula and Jose Mari — a Chilean Spanish family who turned their travel dreams into this special project. Jose Mari is originally from Navarra, along the famous Camino de Santiago, and he brings that same warm hospitality to Puerto Natales.

What I saw and did

  • Torres del paine, National Park: Torres del Paine is without doubt one of the most breathtaking places I’ve ever visited. The moment you enter the park, you’re struck by its wild beauty — dramatic peaks, crystal-clear lakes, and vast valleys that look untouched by time. The Torres (towers) themselves are truly magical. The first time you see them, it’s hard to believe they’re real — they’re so massive, so majestic. The view from Base Torres is indescribable. The hike up was a challenge, but standing at the top, surrounded by silence and nature, made every step worth it. And it’s not just the towers — the park is packed with wonders. The Grey Glacier is awe-inspiring, and walking along the turquoise lakes is an experience you won’t find anywhere else. The diversity of flora and fauna is impressive too: I spotted guanacos, condors, and even a puma during my hikes! There’s a route for everyone here — from short day hikes to the famous W-trek and O-circuit, which take you deep into the park’s heart. The trails are well-marked and maintained, but you’ve got to be prepared — the weather can change in a flash. I completed the W-trek, and every corner brought a new view. Every step made me feel smaller in the face of nature — but also more connected to it than ever.
  • Visit Muelle Histórico (historical jetty): A peaceful place to walk and soak in the views across the water. The old wooden jetty is full of character and offers a quiet moment of reflection — plus, it’s a fascinating glimpse into the town’s past.

After our time in Puerto Natales, we flew back to Santiago to say goodbye to the girls — they had to go back to keeping the country’s GDP running, after all. We continued to Pucón, a charming town in Chile’s south, nestled at the base of the active Villarrica Volcano and along the shores of Lago Villarrica. Pucón has a cosy, almost alpine feel — wooden houses, great restaurants, lovely cafés, and a lively main street buzzing with energy.

My food and drink experiences

  • Mama’s & Tapas: A great mix of grilled meats, seafood, and tapas. The portions are generous, and the quality lives up to the hype. Plenty of cocktails and local beers to choose from — perfect for an afternoon drink. We ordered a beer and a little appetiser: caprese salad on toast.
  • La Maga Uruguayan Steakhouse: This place is all about authentic Uruguayan-Argentinian barbecue. On my friend’s recommendation, we ordered a tenderloin steak with Roquefort sauce and a filet mignon. No regrets.
  • Fioritini: We were just craving Italian food, and this hit the spot. We had pasta puttanesca, grilled salmon, and a fresh couscous salad with mint.Simple, but unmistakably good.
  • Cafe De La P: Stepping into Café De La P felt like sliding into a warm bath — if that bath smelled like freshly baked pastries and homemade chocolate. We sat at a cosy window table with soft sunlight falling across the wooden floor. Tempted by the colorful display of cakes (almost too pretty to eat), we also decided to try something savoury. The pollo sandwich came on crusty bread, stacked with tender chicken, crisp lettuce, and a creamy dressing that tied everything together. And the pumpkin soup? 
    Velvet-smooth, lightly spiced, and warming right down to our toes. The flavours, the atmosphere, the smiling staff — everything just clicked. A place to remember — and return to. Hopefully soon.
  • D’Toros: Again, another hidden culinary gem that brings the flavours of southern Chile to life. This warm, intimate bistro blends traditional Chilean dishes with a modern twist. We both had prawn-based dishes — delicious.

Where I stayed 

  • Lucky’s Hostel: A tip from a friend — and I’m so glad I followed it. It had only been open for a year, but what a great place! Just half a kilometre from the centre, yet it felt like a peaceful oasis. With a huge garden and private rooms perfect for recharging, it had that authentic, down-to-earth vibe that’s hard to find. They even had a stone oven for making pizzas! Two travellers run the place, so they know exactly what you need—pure comfort and chill. 

What I saw and did

  • Climbing Villarrica Volcano: Climbing Villarrica was one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that straddles the line between fear, awe, and pure euphoria. Before sunrise, I stood there layered in thermals, pickaxe in hand, looking up at the snow-covered summit with a mix of nerves and excitement. Every step through the crunching snow was a battle — against the slope, the cold, and my own inner voice (“what was I thinking?!”). But then you turn around — and the view… Lakes glittering below, the sky painted in soft orange and purple hues — and you suddenly realise I’m really here.
  • Thermal Baths: The hot springs in Pucón were like a warm embrace after days of adventure. After climbing the volcano and trekking through volcanic forests, my body was aching — and those steamy pools showed up right on time. I remember slowly dipping my feet into the water, surrounded by nothing but nature: ferns, steaming rocks, and the gentle rush of a distant river. The air was crisp, almost misty, which only made the contrast with the hot water more magical. You could literally feel the tension melt away. What made it truly unforgettable was the realisation: this warmth comes straight from the earth — a kind of ancient force holding and healing you. Lying there, under the open sky, watching the steam rise, I thought: Yes. This is exactly what I needed. No wellness resort or fancy spa could compare. Raw, pure, real.
  • Huerquehue National Park: This place felt like time stood still. The trail begins with a steady uphill climb, slowly pulling you away from the noise of the world and into a forest of towering, ancient trees — standing like guardians over the land. Huerquehue isn’t a park you just “tick off” — it’s something you feel. In your legs, in your breath, in your heart. It leaves behind a memory like the smell of moss and pine after a rain — something that lingers long after you’ve left.

From Pucón to Capitán Pastene is about a 3.5-hour drive — perfect when you’ve got a rental car and the open road ahead. Capitán Pastene felt like stumbling into a tiny slice of Italy, hidden in the heart of Chile.
Narrow streets, little pasta shops selling handmade tortellini, and the warm scent of garlic and rosemary drifting through the air. We enjoyed homemade prosciutto with a touch of merkén — a beautiful fusion of Modena and Mapuche flavors.

My food & drink experiences

  • L’Emiliano Cabañas-Ristorante: We sat at a wooden table, tucked beneath a canopy of grapevines, a glass of red wine in hand and a plate of steaming Tortelli al Funghi and Tagliatelle al Ragù topped with Parmesan in front of us. Everything here is made with love — you can taste it in the food and feel it in the atmosphere. We returned the next night — because why go anywhere else when it’s this good? This time, we had the pasta bolognese, cooked by Nonna herself.

Where I stayed 

  • L’Emiliano Cabañas-Ristorante: L’Emiliano isn’t just a place you arrive at — it’s a place you land. After hours of winding roads through the Chilean countryside, these rustic wooden cabins suddenly appeared, nestled in the hills. No frills, no fuss — just good. The room smelled of wood and freshly laundered sheets, and a bottle of red wine was already waiting on the terrace. And the best part? It felt like the kind of place where no one needed to find us.

What I saw and did

  • Pasta and cured meat producers: One of the most memorable experiences in Capitán Pastene was visiting its small, artisan pasta and meat producers. At Anita Covili’s, I literally walked through clouds of freshly rolled dough while she brought her traditional recipes to life with such care and precision. A little further down the road, in Don Primo’s ham cellar, the air was thick with the rich, salty aroma of cured meats — a true temple for food lovers. Everywhere you turned, you could feel the pride and passion of generations of craftsmanship. And the best part? It’s not just for show — you get to taste everything. It doesn’t get more authentic than that.
  • Viña Capitán Pastene: What makes this winery stand out is its blend of Italian tradition and Chilean innovation. Founded by descendants of Italian immigrants, they aim to craft wines that reflect both their ancestral roots and the richness of the Chilean soil. One remarkable aspect of Viña Capitán Pastene is its commitment to social projects. They’ve even established a vineyard inside a prison in Malleco, where inmates are trained in viticulture. This unique partnership has led to wines with extraordinary stories — like “Los Confines,” made from 100-year-old Moscatel vines.

We were invited to the home of our Chilean friend’s family — and wow, did we feel it! From the moment we stepped through the door, we were showered with warmth, endless platters of food, and glasses that were never allowed to stay empty. It was a true celebration. We quickly learned that Chileans don’t just know how to enjoy life — they know how to pull you right into it. Eating, drinking, laughing — all in a kind of joyful abundance you really have to experience to believe.

My food & drink experiences

In the middle of the table stood a giant pan of paella, easily big enough to feed a small orphanage. And just when we thought we couldn’t possibly eat another bite… out came dessert: A fluffy cheesecake topped with fresh cherries, a sugary meringue tart loaded with colourful fruit, creamy pudding served with vanilla ice cream, and a crunchy nut crumble to finish it all off. Every dish radiated love and care. For a moment, it felt like we were part of their family — like we’d come home to a place filled with flavours and stories.

 

Our journey ended in San Pedro de Atacama — and we honestly couldn’t have imagined a more beautiful closing chapter. This little dusty village in the heart of the desert feels almost otherworldly. Adobe houses, sandy streets, and a night sky so packed with stars it makes you stop in your tracks. Here, at the very end of our route, everything seemed to slow down. We drove past endless salt flats, watched flamingos scatter like pink brushstrokes across blue lagoons, and felt the stillness of the desert sink deep into our bones. San Pedro wasn’t just the final stop — it felt like the place where everything we’d experienced could finally land.

My eat & drink experiences

  • Casa de Piedra Atacameña: Some places just feel right from the moment you walk in — even if you can’t explain why. This was one of those. Sand beneath your feet. A fire pit in the centre. Chairs and hammocks all around. Live music drifting through the air — guitar, and a singer with a raw, husky voice. The perfect soundtrack to a slow desert evening. The food was honest, generous, and full of flavour.
    I had crudo de res as a starter, followed by chilli con carne    — perfectly paired with a classic 
    pisco sour.
  • Restaurant Bon Appetit SPA: If you’re in San Pedro and looking for a great meal that won’t break the bank, this place is a must. It’s not fancy — but that’s exactly what makes it charming and authentic. The atmosphere is relaxed, the décor warm but straightforward, and it feels like the kind of spot where you can actually eat well without any fuss. The staff are friendly and efficient, which hits just right after a long, hot day in the desert. I had a delicious shrimp cocktail here — light, refreshing, and exactly what I needed.

Where I stayed 

  • Lodge Ancor Atacama: We stayed here for five nights. After a full day of dust, sun, and wonder in the vast Atacama Desert, all I wanted was a place to kick off my shoes, clear my head, and just be. And Lodge Ancar was exactly that. The lodge is tucked just outside the touristy centre of San Pedro — close enough to walk into town, but far enough to leave the crowds behind. It’s small and peaceful, with a handful of charming bungalows, each with its own terrace and hammock. Perfect for lazy afternoons with a book… or just staring up at the stars (and trust me, that sky… wow). And then there’s Andres, the owner. Not the “I went to hotel school” kind of host — but the genuinely kind, thoughtful, salt-of-the-earth kind. He took time to help me plan excursions, shared his favourite local spots, and was always around — never intrusive, always welcoming.
  • San Pedro Domos: This isn’t the kind of place you go for room service or sleek design. It’s simpler than that — and maybe that’s precisely what makes it so special. You sleep in a spacious dome tent just outside San Pedro, far from the lights of town. During the day, you head out to valleys, salt flats, and geysers. And at night? You return to what might be the most incredible luxury of all: a starry sky so massive it practically knocks you over. The domes are basic but comfortable, with real beds and plenty of space for your gear. You do need to be okay with a little cold at night — it is the desert, after all, and the temperature drops as soon as the sun disappears. Don’t expect hotel service. But do expect a place to unwind after a day of deep impressions, truly. Quiet. Spacious. And that endless sky all to yourself. For me, San Pedro Domos felt like a pause — a space between adventure and stillness. Simple, but exactly right.