Guatemala

Guatemala

CAPITOL CITY

Guatamala City

LANGUAGE

Spanish

CURRENCY

Quetzal

FLIGHT DURATION

16+ hours

True colours

I booked this trip through Shoestring. I thought it would be fun to try a group tour for once, where you get to meet more passionate travelers. There was just one small financial setback: I had booked a flight with a layover in Houston and planned to apply for an ESTA. Unfortunately, my application was denied because I had visited Cuba after 2021. As a result, I had to buy a new plane ticket to avoid the US altogether.

Despite the extra costs, the trip was more than worth it. I’ve visited many countries before, and sometimes you think you’ve already had the most special travel experiences—but this trip proved otherwise. It was full of diversity: active volcanoes, rainforests, the fascinating Mayan culture, colonial towns, meals with local families, wildlife, and so much more. The weather was ideal, with temperatures between 20 and 30 degrees. The travel pace was quite fast; most mornings started around 6 or 7 a.m. with a new adventure. On top of that, I got along really well with the group, which made the journey even more enjoyable.

One small downside was the lack of vegetables in the local cuisine. Most meals barely included any greens, so I sometimes had to supplement my vitamin intake with smoothies.

Practical tips

  • Almost every hotel has water stations where you can refill your bottle with filtered water.
  • If you’re heading to Semuc Champey, I’d recommend bringing water shoes.
  • In Guatemala City, you can use Uber to get around.
All Photos

At 8:30 PM, I landed at La Aurora Airport in Guatemala City. I reunited with Aster, and together we started looking for our taxi driver — but he was nowhere to be found. After walking in circles and asking around, we were about to order our own taxi when we finally got in touch with Olga, our tour leader, and Arnaldo, the driver. It was still over an hour’s drive to Antigua, and we were both exhausted from the trip. When we arrived at the hotel, we met another group member, Nathaniel. I was so tired that I went straight to bed.

The next morning, my alarm went off at 7 AM, and I felt surprisingly well-rested. I met my roommate, Karin, and the rest of the group: Rogier, Linda, Martijn, Josine, Sanne, and Silvia. We all had breakfast together (fried eggs and fried plantain), and everyone seemed excited. I snapped some photos of the volcanoes from the rooftop terrace — the sun was out, and it felt amazing. After breakfast, we got ready for a city tour. I showed up happily in flip-flops, but everyone else was in hiking boots or sneakers. Luckily, I changed into my hiking shoes just in time — we ended up walking 18,000 steps over cobblestones.

We visited Parque Central, the San José Cathedral, the Nim Po’t handicraft market, the Arco de Santa Catalina, Iglesia de la Merced, the Convento de la Merced, and Cerro de la Cruz.

I think Antigua is the most charming town I’ve seen in Guatemala. It reminded me a bit of Trinidad in Cuba, with all the colorful houses and Spanish-style cafés and restaurants.

My food & drink experiences

Where I stayed

  • Hotel Posada del Hermano Pedro: This hotel was right in the heart of Antigua, near the park, and had a rustic charm. The beds were comfortable, and the rooms were spacious. I stayed here twice. The first night was freezing, but luckily, they provided extra blankets. The shower wasn’t always hot, but it was manageable.

What I saw and did

  • Parque Central: A lively park perfect for a stroll. There’s live music, street food, and lots of cute cafés around.
  • Cathedral de San José: A striking cathedral located in the center of town.
  • Nim Po’t Centro de Textiles Tradicionales: A fun indoor market full of handcrafted goods and traditional textiles.
  • Arco de Santa Catalina: The city’s iconic arch and one of its most famous sights.
  • Iglesia de la Merced: For 30 Quetzales, you can climb the rooftop for a fantastic view of the smoking volcano.
  • Cerro de la Cruz: A solid uphill walk that rewards you with an amazing panoramic view of Antigua.

 

This was, without a doubt, one of the highlights of the entire trip: climbing the most active volcano in Central America (its last eruption was in 2021). The volcano stands at 2,552 meters high. It wasn’t a long hike (about 1.5 hours), but it was definitely a challenge. And it was so worth it! We walked across lava trails, saw solidified lava flows, and the black volcanic rock created an incredible moon-like landscape. Along the way, we passed vents in the volcano where you could feel the heat rising from the earth. Our guide had brought marshmallows, which we roasted on sticks over the steaming vents — a surreal and fun moment.

Even though I had rented a walking stick for about one euro, the descent didn’t go quite as smoothly for me. I started having pain in the ligaments of my knee. The guide wrapped it with some bandage for support, but it just wasn’t working anymore — I had to finish the descent on horseback.

After that, we drove another four hours to Panajachel. On the way, we stopped at the Guatemalan fast-food chain ‘Pollo Campero‘ (kind of like KFC) for dinner. It’s not my usual go-to, but I have to say the chicken salad (ensalada y tazón) was delicious — and super quick, which was perfect at that moment.

We arrived late in Panajachel, but a few of us still managed to grab a drink on a rooftop bar. The next morning started perfectly: I had delicious pancakes for breakfast and then went to meditate by the river, sitting on a dock in the sun. An absolutely peaceful way to begin the day. Afterwards, I treated myself to a coffee and wandered through the streets, admiring the murals, the bright colors, and the beautiful people in traditional clothing. Somewhere along the way, I bought a relaxed pair of pants — sadly, they tore after just a few days… Later on, I bumped into some of my travel companions, and we ended up having lunch together.

My food & drink experiences

  • Rooftopbar bij Regis Hotel en Spa: I had a lovely Guatemalan wine here and some chicken tapas — really nice vibe.
  • Restaurante Lena’s Atlantis: This place is a gem. It has a cozy little garden patio, and I ended up eating here twice — once for lunch and once for dinner. I had Peruvian ceviche for lunch (which was too sour for my taste so that I wouldn’t recommend it), but the chicken tacos I had for dinner were absolutely delicious!

Where I stayed

  • Posada Camel bay: This hotel was right near the lake, with decent but simple rooms and a pretty garden. Nothing fancy, just comfortable and easygoing. The only downside was that there was some renovation work going on during my stay, so it got a bit noisy at times. The breakfast was nice, though: pancakes with maple syrup and fresh fruit, or scrambled eggs with beans and fruit.

What I saw and did

  • Morning meditation on a dock in the sun at Lake Atitlán.
  • Strolling through the village at a slow, relaxed pace.
  • Taking beautiful sunrise and sunset photos of Lake Atitlán.

Just across the water from Panajachel, only a 30-minute boat ride away, lies the village of San Juan. And wow — the moment we arrived, it felt like a celebration. Such a cheerful vibe and vibrant colors everywhere! The streets were decorated with hanging umbrellas, giving the whole village a joyful, welcoming look.

We went on a tour through the village, and our first stop was a bee farm, where I bought a bottle of all-natural honey shampoo — it seriously makes your hair shine! Next, we visited a weaving collective where a woman demonstrated how she spins cotton and uses natural ingredients to dye the fabric. After that, we walked to a small chocolate workshop, where we got to see the chocolate-making process and taste some delicious samples. I also picked up a 100% natural chocolate soap while I was there. You could feel it everywhere: the entire village is deeply involved in community-based projects.

That night, I stayed at a local homestay with a family — Martha’s family, to be exact. Martha is such a kind-hearted woman. She showed me my room: simple, with a comfy bed and a warm blanket. The shower and toilet were basic, which made me reflect on how much I often take for granted — how unevenly resources are spread across the world. And still, Martha and her family were doing well. They were full of joy, and both kids were going to school: her 16-year-old son was preparing to study psychology, and her 19-year-old daughter was about to begin a tourism course.

Martha’s cooking was amazing. She prepared everything on a wood stove, and that evening she made us Pepián, a traditional Guatemalan dish. The next morning, she surprised me with the fluffiest pancakes I’ve ever had.

The family speaks one of the 23 Maya languages, but I was able to communicate with Martha using a mix of English, Spanish, and good old-fashioned hand gestures.

My food & drink experiences

  • Pepian at Martha’s home: Pepián is one of the oldest and most iconic Guatemalan dishes. It’s a thick, rich meat stew with roots in both Mayan and colonial Spanish cuisine — comforting, earthy, and full of flavor

Where I stayed

  • Home stay with Martha: The house was modest and open, with two bedrooms, a small kitchen, and a garden. It was located close to the village church.

What I saw and did

  • Visiting the local market: In the morning, we helped pick out fresh vegetables and meat for the meal. It was an experience in itself — chaotic, colorful, and so alive.
  • Cooking class with Martha: We got hands-on! We ground the corn for tortillas using a traditional machine, chopped veggies, picked fresh herbs, grilled vegetables, and wrapped little maize cakes in banana leaves. We cooked rice, too, and the final result was a beautifulpepian, served with a glass of freshly pressed hibiscus juice.
  • Mirador Kaqasiiwaan: While the stew was slowly cooking, we hiked up to a stunning viewpoint over the lake. And just as I reached the top, my sweet little niece called me — such a lovely, grounding moment to share from so far away.

About two hours from Panajachel lies the small town of Chichicastenango. On Thursdays and Sundays, this place transforms into the largest market in Guatemala. It’s a maze of stalls selling brightly colored fabrics, woven blankets, baby chicks (which I honestly found heartbreaking), and intricately carved traditional masks. It’s incredibly vibrant and full of locals. The Maya culture is very much alive here — incense fills the air as rituals are performed throughout the town.

The steps of the church are actually part of the original Mayan temple that once stood there, long before the Spanish built their Catholic church on top. Local people still perform traditional ceremonies on these steps, honoring their ancestral gods with flowers, candles, and offerings.

After a while, though, I found the market overwhelming — it got so crowded, and all the stalls started to look alike. My senses felt overstimulated, and I was ready to step away from the chaos.

Later in the afternoon, we visited a local cemetery. Here, each grave is painted in a color that symbolizes something about the person, like their gender or personality. It was deeply moving to see such vibrancy and individuality woven into the way people are remembered.

Chichicastenango is quite hilly, which means any downhill stroll eventually becomes an uphill climb again!

My eat & drink experience

  • Mayan inn Restaurant: We had lunch at a museum restaurant with a beautiful garden, and three colourful parrots flying around! The restaurant is part of the Museo de Maya, which offers a variety of Guatemalan and Central American dishes. I went for a refreshing spinach salad with pineapple and nuts.

What I saw and did

  • Plaza y mercado Santo Thomás: The first stretch of the market was fascinating, full of life and color. Make your way towards the white church, where flower vendors sit on the steps  surrounded by clouds of incense. It’s a beautiful sight. But after about an hour, the pushing crowds, persistent vendors, and repetitive products started to wear me out.
  • Chichi Cemetery: This is a must-see. At first glance, I thought it was a colorful village — until I realized it was a cemetery. The tombs are painted in vibrant rainbow colors, and each color holds symbolic meaning. It was both beautiful and humbling.
  • Moreria Santo Tomas Fabrica De Máscara: We visited this workshop where traditional masks are handmade for the town’s annual festivals. It’s incredible craftsmanship and such a key part of the local cultural identity.

Río Dulce, also known as the “sweet river.” And of course… jungle! We even stayed in a jungle lodge, which was super cool. It took a while to get there—about seven hours in total—but we stopped for lunch along the way. Our accommodation was tucked deep in the jungle among the mangroves, so it could only be reached by boat. The cabañas were super cute. You do need to be okay with insects, though ;-). Once we arrived, we immediately jumped into the pool and ordered a Piña Colada. The tropical live-your-best-life vibe kicked in right away ;-).

After dinner, we went out to explore the jungle a little—not for long, since it was already dark. We did come face to face with a giant spider and spotted a micófago (a type of opossum) climbing into a tree.

My food & drink experiences

  • At Hacienda Tijax, I orderedmojarra (a type of bass) with potatoes and salad. The next day, I went for black bean soup and a chicken salad.
  • At Puento de rio dulce, I stopped for lunch and ordered a yogurt and granola bowl.

Where I stayed

  • Hacienda Tijax: A jungle lodge with adorable cabañas. The pool was a bit cold, and the sun didn’t really reach it since the lodge is deep in the jungle. But the experience of sleeping in the jungle made it totally worth it.

What I saw and did

  • Kayak Monkey Sunrise Tour: My alarm went off at 4:30 AM because we had to be in our kayaks by 4:45. What an experience! Kayaking at sunrise truly makes you feel alive. We were out for about two hours and spotted lots of monkeys in the trees along the way.
  • Massage: I got a combination massage. Very different from a Thai massage — gentle, relaxing, and so soothing.
  • Jungle Trails & Shaman -Tower Hike: This was a beautiful two-hour hike to a tower with an incredible view from the top. We spotted lots of birds along the way. By the end we were drenched in sweat — it’s a humid jungle! On the way back, we crossed some really cool hanging bridges.

After a 10-hour drive (including a lunch break), we arrived in Flores, where we stayed for three nights in a hotel on the shores of Lake Petén Itzá—a stunningly large lake. The hotel had a serene atmosphere, the kind of place where you can really unwind. And I did just that. In and around the hotel, there was plenty of wildlife to spot. You’ll see all kinds of large lizards, and in the river, there are turtles—and even crocodiles!

Before sunset, we explored the town. Part of Flores is underwater due to the rising water levels, and you can see the impact. Some restaurants are completely flooded and no longer in use.

You can pretty much explore all of Flores in half a day. It’s a beautiful and colorful little town, full of hills. I also took a short boat ride to San Miguel, but I wouldn’t really recommend it. The village is primarily residential, without a church or a real town centre.

My food & drink experiences

  • Maracuya: This is a charming restaurant where the food is fantastic. It’s set in a gorgeous jungle garden right by the water. I went twice—first just for a drink and ordered a green, healthy smoothie. The second time I went with the group for dinner and ordered Lo Mitológico(a platter with grilled meat, corn, tortillas, black bean purée, and pickles).
  • Maple & Tocino: I found this place as a Lonely Planet recommendation. It has a great waterfront view. I ordered a chicken and nut salad, and it was delicious.

Where I stayed

  • Hotel maya internacional: Such a peaceful environment where you can truly relax. The restaurant serves delicious food, and the staff is friendly. The vibe of the hotel is perfect for winding down. It also has a small pool where you can chill by the water.

What I saw and did

  • Yoga at Ahau Tikal: At 8:30 AM, I took a yoga class with Aleyanda. It was so nice—outdoors and super calming. A perfect start to the day!
  • Took a boat ride to San Miguel.
  • Explored Flores on foot.

From Flores, we drove to the Yaxha Maya temple complex, which took about two hours. The last 10 kilometers were a pretty rough, bumpy ride. As we arrived, we were greeted by a heavy rain shower, which fit perfectly with the whole rainforest adventure vibe.

Yaxha sits on the edge of Laguna Yaxha, which we had to cross by boat before starting our walk through the complex. From there, we climbed a lot of steps and ended up walking around 4 kilometers through lush jungle, past various temples and structures. The entire complex is awe-inspiring and steeped in history. Many of the buildings haven’t even been excavated yet, but it was still easy to get a sense of the sheer size of this ancient city that once held around 45,000 people, filled with palaces, ball courts, temple pyramids, roads, and stelae. A few pyramids were open for climbing.

For sunset, we hiked up to Structure 216, the tallest building, where we climbed a staircase to the top. Once there, the guide asked everyone to be completely silent so we could take in the sounds of howler monkeys, white-fronted Amazons, and all kinds of birds. Meanwhile, we had an incredible view of the lake and the vast stretch of jungle that seemed to go on forever. Truly breathtaking.

After the sun went down, we hiked back in pitch black darkness, crossed the crocodile-filled lake by boat, and returned to the van to head back to Flores.

My food & drink experience

  • Hotel y Restaurante El Muelle: On the way to the Maya temples, we stopped here for lunch. I ordered a churrasco de pollo (grilled chicken) and a strawberry smoothie.

What I saw and did

At Semuc Champey, there’s a viewpoint that requires climbing 800 super slippery steps/stones. It wasn’t even that warm that day—around 59°F—but I was drenched in sweat. I had brought everything with me: thermal clothing, a down jacket, swimwear… Luckily, I didn’t end up needing the thermals.

After a 2-hour drive, we were transferred to a pickup truck, where we stood in the back for the ride to the reserve. The view of the tiered turquoise pools was stunning. And taking a dip in that natural water? Just the best feeling ever.

My food & drink experience

  • Kak-ik: A local dish I had at the hotel restaurant. It’s a soup made with turkey, including a whole turkey leg. The dish dates to pre-Columbian times. The name comes from the Maya Q’eqchi’ language, with kak meaning “red” and ik meaning “hot” or “very spicy.” The soup was served with corn tortillas. I really enjoyed it.
  • Salmón a la plancha (grilled salmon with polenta and tomatoes) at Candelaria Lodge. The salmon had a crispy skin, and the polenta was buttery and delicious.
Where I stayed
  • Park hotel: Not a place I would’ve picked myself. You get a wristband at check-in—which already says something. It’s a large park with cottages, three restaurants, a gym, and lots of nature. Everything was clean and the rooms were comfortable, though.

What I saw and did

  • Cuevas de Candelaria:On the way to Semuc Champey, we stopped at the Candelaria Caves. I’ve seen quite a few caves before, but they’re always fun and a bit thrilling. The humidity, the impressive stalactites, and the complete darkness create a unique vibe every time.

(IN PROGRESS) I spent my last two days in Guatemala City. It’s an okay city, but I wouldn’t go back. There are a lot of tall towers, and at every little shop or supermarket, there’s armed security with big guns. You’d think that would make you feel safe—but honestly, it had the opposite effect on me.

My food & drink experience

  • Donde el Gringo: We wanted to grab a drink before dinner and ended up at this place. Nothing special. The cocktails weren’t flavorful either.
  • Arrin Cuan: This was our final group dinner. The atmosphere was fine—we had our usual big table for the eleven of us. Just as we were finishing our meal, the music suddenly blasted, and the karaoke started. I have nothing against karaoke, but the volume was so loud we couldn’t even hear each other talk. On top of that, we were the only ones in the restaurant. The food, though, was good: Plato típico (basically an overload of carbs and protein).
  • Saul Bistro: A lovely spot on Paseo Cayalá. I had a delicious salad with chicken, kale, macadamia nuts, and peach.
  • Little India: On my last day I was craving Indian food and found this place. The menu was quite limited—no saag paneer—but I did get a tasty massaman curry with garlic naan.
  • San Martin Zona 10: A nice bakery and restaurant. I went here twice: once for a skinny smoothie, and another time for a chicken salad with yogurt dressing and a detox smoothie.

Where I stayed

What I saw and did

  • National Museum of Mayan Art: A beautiful museum with lots of archaeological finds from the Mayan culture.
  • Plaza Fontabella: A fun square with lots of little shops and restaurants.